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The Cwm Tydu Coastal Walk....
A map of the walk is here
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Organised by Ceredigion County Council and led by David Thomas, author of
several books on Dylan Thomas and New Quay, the walkers met in the car park
of the Crown Inn at Llwyndafydd. This pub, now a renowned local restaurant
also, was once the meeting place of the Cilie poets - children and grand
children of Jeremiah and Mary Jones.
The day had not started well with an
overcast sky and a persistent drizzle. However, as if on cue, the rain
stopped and the sky began to clear. There were only nine of us, including David Thomas and Paul Evans from the County Council
(Coastal Footpaths).
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The river Dewi |
We set off to Cwmtydu alongside the
Afon Dewi - Dylan Thomas' 'Singing Dewi' where the river tumbles over
a series of rocky ledges on its way down to the sea at Cwmtydu. The road is
narrow here, overhung with the branches of Sessile Oaks that cling
to the side of the valley above the road. On our left beside the river were tall larches,
no doubt planted by a former owner of Pendderw whose
private road crosses a bridge and climbs the side of the valley to the
unseen house on the edge of the fields high above.
In these narrow coastal valleys, the sun
struggles to penetrate the steep enclosing hillsides and dense forest
canopy. As a result there is a profusion of Ferns on both sides of the road,
while many branches are thick with Polypodium and the grey boulders
are clothed with mosses.
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We soon came to a road junction at Felin Huw -
although there was no visible trace of a mill today. Here there is a
bridge over a deep gorge where the river rushes between . Beneath the bridge
we were told sheep were once dipped. The road to the left led up a steep
slope to Cilie farm, once the home of the famous 'Cilie Boys'. Although they
all held day jobs, they were famous poets of the day, visited by many
notables including Lloyd George.
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Cwmtydu Lime Kiln
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Further on the road becomes less steep and we
emerge from under the trees to the flat valley bottom where the Dewi -
now known as the Tydu enters the sea. Here the shingle bank pushed up by the
waves forms a lagoon before the river rushes across the pebbles into the
sea. At the top of the beach is an old Lime kiln - restored in recent years
and shown at the left. Lime Kilns were common in this area with many along
the Ceredigion coast - some being seen at Cei Bach just the other side of
New Quay. Click here for a page about Lime Kilns in
Ceredigion
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The path leaves the beach through a 'kissing
gate' and then zigzags up the hillside to give an excellent view of the
beach below. You can click on the photo to get a bigger version (500x375).
As we climbed the path we disturbed a pair of Ravens from the rocks below,
and then moments later we saw a Chough with its distinctive red bill and
feet. There are only a few dozen pairs of this threatened species on the
Ceredigion coast and the path between Cwmtydu and New Quay is one of the
best places to see them. |
Cwmtydu Beach
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Castell Bach Beach
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Far below us a fishing boat out of New Quay was surrounded by
Herring gulls looking for a free meal. We watched the boat for a few minutes
and then continued along the path for
half a mile or so. As we reached the top of the hill we were treated to a
stunning view of the Ceredigion coastline extending far to the north.
Immediately below us was a rocky grass-topped islet cut off from the shore
by a sand and shingle beach and quite inaccessible at high tide. On the grassy plateau
beyond could be seen the remains of an Iron Age fort 'Castell Bach'
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There was some excitement from the group when a
big Grey Seal was seen watching us from the water below. He remained in the
same place alternately diving and then resurfacing for a look around as we
skirted the bay and descended to the remains of the iron age fort
below.
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The little River Soden runs from
Nanternis into the sea |
Spring Squill Scilla
verna
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Marsh Orchid Dactylorhiza
purpurella
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Several of us had noted the many flowering species of coastal plants
growing in the stunted grass growing at the top of the cliffs. Here we
found the Spring Squill, Bird's Foot Trefoil, Thrift, Stonecrop, and
many more.
We continued along the coastal path until
descending to another little beach. Like Cwmtydu and so many other
beaches in this part of coastal Ceredigion, this beach was formed
where a river cut through the hills. The rocks and pebbles worn away
by the river over thousands of years have formed a beach. However, the river
only flows gently when there has been no heavy rain so the action of the
waves immediately fills in any channel the river might form in the beach
every time there is a high tide. As a result, the river's water runs across
the beach pebbles into the sea.
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Hart's Tongue Fern
Asplenium scolopendrium
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Bird's Foot Trefoil
Lotus
corniculatus
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Thrift
Armeria maritima
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Notable among the plants growing at the top of
this beach were the kidney Vetch, the Bird's Foot Trefoil and the Thrift.
The path climbs up a steep slope (be careful
here) on the other side of the beach before turning inland and following the
densely wooded
side of the valley towards Nanternis. After half a mile the footpath from
the beach joins with the path that follows the coast to New Quay. Here there
is the 'Byrlip', National Trust sign.
The valley at this point has the most
magnificent displays of ferns one is ever likely to see in Britain, there
are Male Ferns, Shield Ferns and especially Hart's Tongue Ferns looking so
lush and green they could almost be mistaken for Asplenium nidus
in a garden centre!
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After another half mile the narrow woodland path
widens as the path runs above a water treatment facility. Through a couple
of gates and it meets the road in the little community of Nanternis. The
road is steep and is quite a climb until, leaving the village it levels out.
At the cross roads by a quaint old furniture shop, we continued as the road
descended into Llwyndafydd to the welcoming Inn where we had started our
walk some three hours earlier.
With impeccable timing, the skies
opened and rain poured down - but not until we were in the pub!
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Nanternis
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Details of the
New Quay Cliff walk can be found Here -
The Dylan Thomas Trail in New Quay is Here.
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Details of the Aberystwyth
Bat Group walk can be found Here -
The Llanina Beach Walk is Here.
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The Tregaron Bog (Cors Caron) walk is Here
all photos © Rod
Attrill 2003
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